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How was it? Well, to sum it up in three words - wet, wet and wet!!
We boarded the bus in the morning in Queenstown for the two hour bus journey
to Te Anau ... and we didn't get any further. It was pouring down rain on
the Track and people were stranded at the lodges. They start a new hike
every day. Therefore, there was nowhere for us to go. They did an amazing
job of finding rooms for us all and we settled down for the afternoon of
waiting. Rob was in an Internet cafe for most of the afternoon, of course!
=) We got to bond a little with some of the people on
the trip over a three-course dinner - everyone's really great.
The next day, we hiked 11 miles straight through to the second hut of the hike. Everyone
that had stayed in the huts the night before were flown ahead via helicopter.
We had a half day of sun and a half day of clouds. It was a gorgeous walk!
Rob thought the trail was too easy - so they gave us a little challenge of
crossing a raging stream that came to our waist. We had
to hold on to each other and a rope while crossing so we wouldn't get washed
away. We then had to walk
through marsh land, and mud up to our knees. It was great fun! We got to
the Hut and took hot showers and talked with some of our fellow trampers.
The next day was raining cats and dogs. The generator went on at 6:15
and we lay in bed waiting for them to call it off. We went down and made
our lunches,
had a cooked breakfast and ... went out in the pouring rain!!
Those that were sad that their boots never quite dried out from the night before
quickly realized how silly they were. It was quite an adventure for us
fair weather hikers. We are really thankful that we were advised to get
underwater casings for our cameras (thanks, Howard!) as we were the only ones
who got pictures. Today was McKennan Pass - although it was hard to see
where we were hiking. Rob took a great movie shot while standing on a
floating helipad in the middle of a lake during the monsoon. It was only 9 miles but took longer because of the
elevation changes. We were really looking forward to the views, but were
sadly disappointed. On the other hand, the waterfalls were stunning, there
were hundreds of them, and we hiked through most of them several times! We got a hot beverage when we made it to the top,
stopped for lunch when we went over the pass, and hiked down in the freezing
cold to Quintin Lodge and more hot showers. On the way down, we watched
an
avalanche on the opposite hill and were pleased that we were not underneath it. We weren't able to take a side
track to
Sutherland Falls at the end of the day because they had removed the bridge
and helicopter'ed it forward for the next days' hike.
Our guides made the most of it and it was fun to see the slide shows of what
things would look like if the sky was blue.
The morning of the fourth day started out dark and cloudy but with no rain
until after our morning tea stop. It was mild compared
to yesterday and pretty flat walking. Rob
found it was too dark for pictures most of the time (with clouds obscuring most
of the peaks), but we got some good ones due to our new walking stick/camera
pole. (unipod not a tripod) We
made it out after 13.5 miles for a total of 33.5 miles. We were the only
group in the week to walk the whole track because of the weather,
and it that was a nice feeling. The end
of the hike was called Sand Fly Point. Sand flies are lovely creatures,
and we have the bites to prove it where we forgot to cake on the repellant.
The females are the blood suckers for the protein. Legend has it that the Maoris
introduced these bugs so people wouldn't enjoy nature too much. Kerstin
showed her love by going out in a storm of sandflies to snag Rob's sandals at
the end of the hike. She doesn't bring it up. Not too often at least.
We ended the day with a short boat ride across the sound to the Mitre Peak Lodge, cleaned up, and had our celebratory dinner with some of our new friends.
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The next day was our Milford Sound cruise and it was pouring rain!
Again, we waited for them to call it off and begged to stay behind in the warm
hotel that was stationary after another big breakfast and
some aching legs. But, the show must
go on and we got on the ferry for a two hour boat ride around the sound.
We weren't able to see much but I'm sure it was lovely underneath all those
clouds and rain! We then took the 4-hour bus ride back to Queenstown and
checked into our new hotel. This hotel was right on the busy road so we
were sure to get lots of sleep in the next three nights. We headed back
down town and met 12 of our fellow tramping friends for a night of pizza and
drinks at a place called The Cow. It was quite an adventure, and we made
some great friends - really lovely people.
So, would we do it again? If we were guaranteed better weather. We were happy to have done it and we did meet some great people. It's more likely we'd wait for better weather and pick another hike for variety instead.